Want to know more about scuba diving in Indonesia? Expat Living’s Danielle Rossetti tells us about her recent holiday at a dive resort near Manado, North Sulawesi.
It had been a while since we’d been scuba diving, and Bunaken Oasis Dive Resort & Spa in Indonesia looked liked just the place to give us a fantastic diving experience, as well as some great snorkelling and spa sessions for me!
The nearest international airport is Manado, which is easily reached via a connecting flight from Singapore or Jakarta. From the airport, we were driven in air-conditioned cars to the marina (about half an hour away). We then enjoyed an easy ride on a traditional ironwood Phinisi boat. On the 35-minute trip to the resort, we watched the stars overhead and arrived already relaxed.
Discovering Bunaken
Bunaken Oasis was created around a decade ago by a British couple, Elaine and Simon, who built it into the natural contours of the hillside. Rather than carve into the landscape, they elevated the infinity pool so it floats above the trees. It’s an expanse of mirror-calm water with a waterfall edge and sun-loungers perfect for a full day of reading, dozing and dipping. An iced tea arrives just as you consider getting a drink. Someone calls you by name – because everyone here will.
The 12 traditional wooden cottages have rooms that are generous in every way – giant four-poster beds draped with fixed mosquito nets; daily towel changes; and (almost unbelievably), complimentary laundry service each day. (You could literally come for a week and bring two changes of clothes!) Each room has a water dispenser with filtered hot and cold water. It’s perfect for refilling your branded reusable thermos gifted on arrival.
The property does have a lot of steps, but every edge is painted gold for visibility in the evenings. You can also request one of several cottages closer to the water if you don’t want to get your step count up. Your WhatsApp chat with the front office means you can save your legwork for the dive deck or a stroll between the two neighbouring villages, where every local you pass greets you with an enthusiastic “Hello!”
Scuba diving destinations around Bunaken
Manado is synonymous with scuba diving, and for good reason. Just offshore, Bunaken’s walls plunge into deep waters influenced by the nearby Celebes Trench. But what makes this place particularly special is how accessible it is. Even open-water beginners, teens and casual divers can experience what is genuinely world-class underwater scenery without feeling out of their depth.
I am not a diver, but I still went out on the boat each day and snorkelled on the surface. The wall dives mean that there is a lot to see at the top (think turtles, quite a bit of coloured coral and massive schools of fish) while the bubbles from the divers drift up and around you from below. There are six dive boats for the 12 cottages so you can always be guaranteed a special day on and in the water.
The resort’s multi-depth pool (1m, 2m and 3m) is perfect for refreshers or full PADI courses. What’s more, each cottage comes with its own dedicated “stable”. This is a personal stall where your gear is rinsed, stored and handled for you. (Even the boats are named after the owners’ beloved steeds.)
Eating and drinking at Bunaken Oasis
Meals strike a lovely balance between comfort and discovery. Choose from a daily changing three-course dinner of fresh Manadonese flavours, plus a standard menu of reliable favourites for both adults and kids – pizzas, burgers and grilled fish caught mere hours earlier in the deep waters outside the marine park. Two of the chefs come from fishing families, so the wahoo or snapper on your plate is as fresh as seafood gets. The resort also grows its own cucumbers, tomatoes, water spinach, herbs and a variety of Asian greens.
If you’re lucky enough to celebrate a special occasion while at the resort, ask the team about a poolside candlelit dinner. There’s even the chance for lunch on a private “Sand Bar”.
Sunsets are a ritual here. The bar serves a bespoke cocktail each evening alongside the regular favourites, and general managers Simon and Kelly circulate with an attentive warmth that keeps the atmosphere relaxed yet well-run. The dive team also check in on the dinner tables to recommend the next days’ activities.
Other high;ightSpa and service
The spa may become your second home. Two large treatment rooms each have their own private bathrooms for changing and showering after scrubs or wraps, and the massage therapists are skilful and quietly confident. Whether you’ve been diving or lounging by the pool, you’ll walk out feeling reset.
What strikes you most, after a few days, is how much of the heart of Bunaken Oasis comes from its team. Around 80 percent of the roughly 100 staff members come from the neighbouring villages. What’s more, the personal pride in their work really shows – the immaculate upkeep, first-class service and how they greet you each time by name.
You arrive a little tired and looking for some sun, sand, water and a relaxing break. You leave planning your next visit!
A word from a diver
“Divers are truly spoilt for choice at Bunaken. The island sits in the middle of the Bunaken Marine National Park, with 60-plus dive sites in the area. The team at Bunaken Oasis Dive Resort elevate the experience with their custom-built fleet of boats, complete with lounging decks, toilet and extra oxygen. All equipment is stored during your stay in the Stable, with each cottage having its own storage stall. Scuba diving equipment can be hired and is clearly very well maintained.
The diving itself features coral beds (perfect for snorkelling as well) that drop away to spectacular sheer vertical walls. There is an abundance of coral varieties and reef fish swim in large schools. Although one dive site is nicknamed ‘Turtle City’, you’re almost guaranteed to see hawksbill and green turtles on every dive alongside stingrays, nudibranchs, crabs and reef sharks. For those interested in muck diving, sites closer to Manado are popular.
The entire team are also exceptionally welcoming and efficient, making sure you have an incredible experience. A special shout out to Didi for his patience, expertise and eagle eyes!”
Catherine MacLean
Find out more about the resort at bunakenoasis.com or call +62 811 4310 399 for reservations.
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