PATRICK CHAN is originally from London and now lives in the New Territories in Tai Wo, a Hong Kong village where he has a strong family connection. The cabin crew worker turned specialist ESL Young Learners Tutor talks to us about the area.
The Specifics
What does ‘Tai Wo’ mean in Chinese?
It roughly translates as Big Valley.
What’s a common myth or misconception about the New Territories?
I’ve heard it referred to as “The Dark Side” but the New Territories are anything but dark. These days, thanks to Hong Kong’s amazing transport links, it’s rapidly becoming absorbed into the greater urban area of HK; the pockets of truly rural, almost isolated areas are shrinking.
I have never thought of Tai Po as being uncultured or intimidating but rather being steeped in traditions and generosity. The scenery and quieter pace of life well make up for any of the conveniences we may lack like takeaway deliveries. It’s certainly no utopia but I love it.
Closest MTR station?
We are midway between Tai Wo and Fanling MTR stations.
How long have you lived here? Why here?
I’ve been here for over seven years, though I lived here in the early ’90s too. It’s always been my second home and after many years flying the world and four years renovating a country house in France, my husband Johan and I decided that Hong Kong would be a great place to live.
Tell us about your family connections with Tai Wo and the New Territories.
I’m immensely proud of my Hakka heritage and ancestry, and I’ve spent years recording our family stories and traditions. Very few official records exist but luckily each family has a list of ancestors that has been wonderful to explore.
I was born in the UK – my father moved there in the early ’60s where he met my mother. Their interracial union caused quite a stir back then, but they remained happily married until my father died in 1993.
The Chan family originated in Guangdong Province, in a place with a rather whimsical name when said in English: Dah Ling Bei (Darling Bay). They settled in Hong Kong in the 1880s, if not earlier. They lived in a mountain valley hamlet but came down to Tai Wo at the turn of the 20th century due to “bad air and bandits”. We still have land there and it’s a stunning spot that’s famous for its reservoir; back then, however, it was a hard place to live and thrive with poor land to farm, no access to any kind of hospitals or schools and, as I was told, the very real threat of tigers.
My great grandfather and his family settled in the valley and through hard work, courage and resourcefulness established themselves as one of founding families of our village.
Tell us a bit about your home.
We had our house rebuilt in 1982 as a holiday home. It’s a typical house of that era with a flat roof and three floors. As with many houses at the time, it was tiled inside and out with decorative tiles – and ours is no exception. Friends can always find us because 9our house is rather alarmingly orange…
The Scene
When you walk out of your place, what’s the first thing you see?
We face the majestic mountain of Tai Mo Shan across the valley. We have planted a small garden of local plants that thrive and smell wonderful, including a pair of sweet olive (osmanthus fragrans) trees at the front door with an almost overwhelming sweet scent in the winter. There are farm fields a few metres in front of us with ladies in wide hats and rubber booties bent over double, weeding and picking vegetables.
What’s the closest store to your front door?
We have a local village store that sells everything from taps to ice, and an international supermarket a 10-minute walk away.
Tell us about your neighbours.
Our direct neighbours are family members and we still have a very traditional relationship. They’re often bemused at my garden because they can’t see the point of growing plants simply for their appearance or fragrance. To them it would make more sense to spend the energy growing things we could eat.
Our front door is always open when we’re at home, and friends and family are free to walk in whenever they want. That does have its downside, of course, but I’ve learned to be a little less precious about privacy and more accepting of community living.
What’s the unofficial uniform of your village?
School children in their tartan uniforms who always seem hot and exhausted doubled over by the weight of their oversized school bags, and farming ladies in their rubber ankle boots with handfuls of green vegetables, fresh from the fields. Being a Hakka village, there was a time when many women in the village would wear traditional Hakka clothing – loose tunic tops protecting them from the heat and flattering the figure, and head coverings known as Bau Tiew Jai (“little head cover”). They’re never seen now.
What’s the strangest thing you’ve ever seen in Tai Wo?
A few years ago, we gathered to watch the solar eclipse. It was so strange to not only witness but to feel the temperature drop considerably and how the birds were suddenly silent.
During Typhoon Mangut we saw an extremely heavy armchair fly through the air in front of our house and land perfectly upright under a tree as if it was always meant to be there.
I came home once to see all my neighbours’ doors closed and them all peeping nervously out of their windows while signalling to me to be careful. Right outside my front door was a Chinese cobra devouring a frog. Never one to miss an opportunity (and acknowledging that the serpent’s mouth was full and otherwise engaged), I stopped within a few feet of it and spent a few minutes admiring the remarkable colourings, making sure not to disturb it and ready to spring away.
The Superlatives
What are your three favourite places to eat or drink in the neighbourhood and why?
We don’t have many fine-dining establishments around Tai Po but we certainly have a great choice of down-to-earth eateries.
I love going to Tai Mei Tuk, which is only 25 minutes away. There are barbecue pit restaurants along the road and the fragrant wafts of grilled meat is so very Hong Kong to me. Chung Shing Thai restaurant is a boisterous place to enjoy great Thai food.
I also love the wet market for lunch or breakfast; one of the best dishes is Shanghai-style pork chops with noodle soup.
There is a tiny store in one of the backstreets of Kam Tin where the owner serves whatever she’s cooked that day. It’s a blend of dishes from the Middle East and the Philippines and you sit outside and enjoy what’s being served. Always a surprise and never a disappointment.
What are the best places to shop at in the neighbourhood?
The wet markets are shopping experiences that I relish. With the arrival of online shopping many of the smaller independent shops have closed but the fruit and vegetable traders, traditional bakeries and roasted meat stalls are still thriving.
There are some fun outlet shops in Tai Po where many bargains can be found and the hardware stores always have what you need from traditional clay pots to bamboo steamers and cast-iron woks.
What are some fun or interesting things to do in Tai Wo?
Hiking – we can easily stroll into the mountains from our front door. The stunning coastline walks of Tai Mei Tuk, Starling Inlet and Lai Chi Wo are a short drive away. Kadoorie Farm is across the valley from us and well worth a visit to see the amazing conservation projects for Hong Kong Fauna.
The Famous Wishing Tree of Lam Tsuen is also close by as are many ancient walled villages.
What’s one thing you’d never change about your Hong Kong village?
The family feel of the village and the informality. The sounds, smells and flavours of Lunar New Year, firecrackers, Mah Jong tiles clacking, the enticing smells of food that is only cooked at New Year celebrations like Law Bak Gow, Mun Ju Yuk and Ju Yuk Poon (radish cake, stewed braised pork, and steamed belly pork in black bean dressing).
How about one thing you would change?
I would love to smarten up the village footpaths and green areas and introduce a better waste management system.
If the city gave you a million dollars to soup up your village, how would you use it?
Plant more trees. According to the village elders, there used to be a lot of huge trees in the village before the war. Alas, the precious wood was cut down and shipped overseas.
Beyond the New Territories
What are your favourite Hong Kong spots for taking out of-town guests?
We always recommend both high-end and grittier experiences. So, dim sum in one of our local restaurants with all its bright lights and loud chatter, then perhaps a stroll through Sham Sui Po or Mong Kok to hunt for treasures, leather items or computer accessories. We’ll finish the day with sundowners in The Lobby Lounge at the Regent Hong Kong, with amazing views across the Harbour, then on to the Star Ferry to Central for steak at La Vache.
This is absolutely an itinerary for the cooler months; if we have guests arriving in the sweltering heat of the summer, we’re more inclined to head over to the beaches in Sai Kung or South Lantau with dinner at the beachfront restaurants.
When you’re in need of a dose of culture, where do you go?
M+, where the encouragement of imagination, the setting and the artworks are so inspiring. The Hong Kong Science Museum is great too and a nice way to spend a hot afternoon.
If you’re missing home, what do you do?
We head into town for a roast dinner or a pie at The Globe, fully immersed in good British food and drink. However, when I’m out of Hong Kong, I crave fried noodles and roasted meat!
This article first appeared in the March 2025 edition of Expat Living. You can purchase the latest issue or subscribe so you never miss a copy!
