We talk to Neelam Daswani, who describes herself as Japan-born Indian. She’s lived in Hong Kong for over 25 years and is a PR & Marketing Consultant and Health & Wellness Coach.
About Your Neighbourhood
Whatโs the name of your street?
Square Street, in the Tai Ping Shan area off Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan. The Chinese name is Sei Fong Gai.
Whatโs a common myth or misconception about Sheung Wan?
People often reduce the areaโs identity to just its historical events โ its role in the Taiping Rebellion โ rather than recognising its dynamic present, contemporary artistic scene and community life.
Exact words you tell a taxi driver or share ride driver to get home?
โSei Fong Gaiโ.
Closest MTR station to Square Street?
Sheung Wan (on the blue Island Line).
How long have you lived in Tai Ping Shan, and why do you choose the location?
I just moved here a month ago! Itโs conveniently located near Central yet still peaceful and away from the hustle and bustle โ I enjoy a quieter atmosphere, a perfect balance. I also love the vibrant energy around the Man Mo Temple, not to mention the massive tree just outside my window, which adds a lovely touch of nature to the urban setting.
Tell us a bit about your home.
It feels like a New York City-style loft: industrial floors, one brick wall, an open kitchen and even a walk-in closet โ a must for every woman! I see the temple and a large lush tree from my windows.
Square Street Highlights
When you walk out of your apartment in Sheung Wan, whatโs the first thing you see?
Man Mo Temple. Built around the middle of the 19th century, this was the heart of the early Chinese community in Hong Kong. It was established by wealthy merchants as part of a religious and community hub, with the area originally acting as a vital social, commercial and legal centre for Cantonese residents, even hosting a free school.
Whatโs the closest store to your front door?
A super cute coffee shop called Venner, after the Norwegian word for โfriendsโ. The cosy Nordic aesthetic provides a perfect blend of warmth and minimalism.
If your street was chosen for a remake of a film, which would it be and why?
An old Bruce Lee or Jackie Chan movie as so much of old HK still remains in the architecture.
Weโre sure your neighbours are great, but is there anything you wouldnโt mind a little less of?
The tourist buses and the tourists coming to visit both Man Mo Street and Cat Street.
Whatโs the unofficial uniform of your street?
There are many young French people in this neighbourhood โ so, stylish sneakers and trendy sunglasses!
Things to do in Tai Ping Shan
What are your favourite places to eat or drink nearby?
- Craftissimo is a cosy and trendy spot known for its artisanal approach to food and beverages. It specialises in craft beers, cocktails and gourmet snacks.
- The Ham Shop offers a selection of cured meats and gourmet products, focusing particularly on Spanish ham.
- Cuban-inspired Montana is a bar opened by award winning Lorenzo Antinori that channels the energy of 1970s Miami. โCome for the Daiquiris, stay for the Ritmo!โ Donโt miss the smoked olives and anchovies pizza.
- Mrs. Hโs Coffee House is a cosy British-style cafรฉ by day, but it transforms into an amazing speakeasy at night.
- Hei Baat Fong for humble, soulful dumplings and comforting Cantonese fare paired with spicy cucumber or a drizzle of homemade chilli sauce. The customisable noodle bowls are a crowd pleaser.
What are the best places to shop in Tai Ping Shan?
- Emma Wallace, my favourite Hong Kong designer, is just down the road from me! I have been wearing her gorgeous pieces for years and now her chic boutique is a stoneโs throw away.
- 52 GAGE is a concept store renowned for curating independent designers, European and Asian craftsmanship, and creative lifestyle pieces across a collection of clothing, accessories and home goods.
- Nelles Gemmes is a Moroccan-themed crystal shop located at G/F, 55 Tung Street, in the Tai Ping Shan area of Sheung Wan. Known for its gorgeous orange storefront and riad-style design, it offers a variety of healing stones, including amethyst, quartz, citrine and sage.
What are some fun or interesting things to do in Sheung Wan?
- The Halfway Coffee Museum is a unique spot that celebrates Hong Kongโs rich coffee culture.
- Take a walk down Cat Street, which is a vibrant mix of heritage and hip. This once-quiet street is now a hotspot for indie boutiques, art galleries and cosy cafรฉs, drawing in a trendy, creative crowd.
- The Company Tattoo HK is a popular destination for tattoo enthusiasts in Hong Kong, known for its skilled artists and diverse range of tattoo styles.
- SAMADHI Training Centre for the Soul is a popular meditation centre located in Tai Ping Shan Street.
Whatโs one thing youโd never change?
The mix of old and new Hong Kong โ for example, a beautiful jadegreen-painted mailbox and recently opened French restaurant Jean-Pierre, literally across the street from one another.
How about one thing you would change?
The constant tourist buses and the construction! But that seems to be the norm in HK at the moment.
If the city gave you a million dollars to soup up Square Street, how would you use it?
Redo the roads and even it out for pedestrians.
Things to do in Hong Kong
What are your favourite spots for taking guests in Hong Kong?
I still am blown away by the views up at The Peak. But for my out-of-town guests, walking the Dragonโs Back followed by a visit to Shek O is a must โ cold beers and Thai food, or bubbles and oysters and a baked fish at Copacabana.
When youโre in need of a dose of culture, where do you go?
The Tsz Shan Monastery in Tai Po. Iโm from Japan and every time I visit the monastery I really feel like Iโm being transported back home โ itโs very peaceful and zen. The (76-metre) statue of Guanyin fills and calms my heart.
If youโre missing home, what do you do?
A quick dose of nature helps me reconnect with home. In particular, the mountainous walk from Coombe Park along Blackโs Link helps me to resetโฆ
Do you love your neighbourhood? Share it with others โ just email us at info@expatliving.hk with โStreet Talkโ in the subject line. Include your name and street, and weโll be in touch.
This article first appeared in Expat Living magazine in Hong Kong. You canย buy the latest issueย or an annual subscription or read theย digital version freeย now.
