NEELAM DASWANI is a Japan-born Indian who has lived in Hong Kong for over 25 years. We talk to the PR & Marketing Consultant and Health & Wellness Coach about her Sheung Wan neighbourhood and home.
About your neighbourhood
What’s the name of your street?
Square Street, in the Tai Ping Shan area off Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan. The Chinese name is Sei Fong Gai.
What’s a common myth or misconception about Sheung Wan?
People often reduce the area’s identity to just its historical events – its role in the Taiping Rebellion – rather than recognising its dynamic present, contemporary artistic scene and community life.
Exact words you tell a taxi driver or share ride driver to get home?
“Sei Fong Gai”.
Closest MTR station to Square Street?
Sheung Wan (on the blue Island Line).
How long have you lived in Tai Ping Shan, and why do you choose the location?
I just moved here a month ago! It’s conveniently located near Central yet still peaceful and away from the hustle and bustle – I enjoy a quieter atmosphere, a perfect balance. I also love the vibrant energy around the Man Mo Temple, not to mention the massive tree just outside my window, which adds a lovely touch of nature to the urban setting.
Tell us a bit about your home.
It feels like a New York City-style loft: industrial floors, one brick wall, an open kitchen and even a walk-in closet – a must for every woman! I see the temple and a large lush tree from my windows.
Square Street highlights
When you walk out of your apartment in Sheung Wan, what’s the first thing you see?
Man Mo Temple. Built around the middle of the 19th century, this was the heart of the early Chinese community in Hong Kong. It was established by wealthy merchants as part of a religious and community hub, with the area originally acting as a vital social, commercial and legal centre for Cantonese residents, even hosting a free school.
What’s the closest store to your front door?
A super cute coffee shop called Venner, after the Norwegian word for “friends”. The cosy Nordic aesthetic provides a perfect blend of warmth and minimalism.
If your street was chosen for a remake of a film, which would it be and why?
An old Bruce Lee or Jackie Chan movie as so much of old HK still remains in the architecture.
We’re sure your neighbours are great, but is there anything you wouldn’t mind a little less of?
The tourist buses and the tourists coming to visit both Man Mo Street and Cat Street.
What’s the unofficial uniform of your street?
There are many young French people in this neighbourhood – so, stylish sneakers and trendy sunglasses!
Things to do in Tai Ping Shan
What are your favourite places to eat or drink nearby?
- Craftissimo is a cosy and trendy spot known for its artisanal approach to food and beverages. It specialises in craft beers, cocktails and gourmet snacks.
- The Ham Shop offers a selection of cured meats and gourmet products, focusing particularly on Spanish ham.
- Cuban-inspired Montana is a bar opened by award winning Lorenzo Antinori that channels the energy of 1970s Miami. “Come for the Daiquiris, stay for the Ritmo!” Don’t miss the smoked olives and anchovies pizza.
- Mrs. H’s Coffee House is a cosy British-style café by day, but it transforms into an amazing speakeasy at night.
- Hei Baat Fong for humble, soulful dumplings and comforting Cantonese fare paired with spicy cucumber or a drizzle of homemade chilli sauce. The customisable noodle bowls are a crowd pleaser.
Best places to shop in Tai Ping Shan?
- Emma Wallace, my favourite Hong Kong designer, is just down the road from me! I have been wearing her gorgeous pieces for years and now her chic boutique is a stone’s throw away.
- 52 GAGE is a concept store renowned for curating independent designers, European and Asian craftsmanship, and creative lifestyle pieces across a collection of clothing, accessories and home goods.
- Nelles Gemmes is a Moroccan-themed crystal shop located at G/F, 55 Tung Street, in the Tai Ping Shan area of Sheung Wan. Known for its gorgeous orange storefront and riad-style design, it offers a variety of healing stones, including amethyst, quartz, citrine and sage.
What are some fun or interesting things to do in Sheung Wan?
- The Halfway Coffee Museum is a unique spot that celebrates Hong Kong’s rich coffee culture.
- Take a walk down Cat Street, which is a vibrant mix of heritage and hip. This once-quiet street is now a hotspot for indie boutiques, art galleries and cosy cafés, drawing in a trendy, creative crowd.
- The Company Tattoo HK is a popular destination for tattoo enthusiasts in Hong Kong, known for its skilled artists and diverse range of tattoo styles.
- SAMADHI Training Centre for the Soul is a popular meditation centre located in Tai Ping Shan Street.
What’s one thing you’d never change?
The mix of old and new Hong Kong – for example, a beautiful jadegreen-painted mailbox and recently opened French restaurant Jean-Pierre, literally across the street from one another.
How about one thing you would change?
The constant tourist buses and the construction! But that seems to be the norm in HK at the moment.
If the city gave you a million dollars to soup up Square Street, how would you use it?
Redo the roads and even it out for pedestrians.
Things to do in Hong Kong
What are your favourite spots for taking guests in Hong Kong?
I still am blown away by the views up at The Peak. But for my out-of-town guests, walking the Dragon’s Back followed by a visit to Shek O is a must – cold beers and Thai food, or bubbles and oysters and a baked fish at Copacabana.
When you’re in need of a dose of culture, where do you go?
The Tsz Shan Monastery in Tai Po. I’m from Japan and every time I visit the monastery I really feel like I’m being transported back home – it’s very peaceful and zen. The (76-metre) statue of Guanyin fills and calms my heart.
If you’re missing home, what do you do?
A quick dose of nature helps me reconnect with home. In particular, the mountainous walk from Coombe Park along Black’s Link helps me to reset.
Share you neighbourhood highlights with our readers! If you love your little corner of Hong Kong, let us know why – just email info@expatliving.hk with “Street Talk” in the subject line. Include your name and street, and we’ll be in touch.
This article first appeared in Expat Living magazine in Hong Kong. You can buy the latest issue or an annual subscription or read the digital version for free now.
