LARA SAGE and family take a driving holiday in South Africa that culminates in a stay at Samara Karoo Reserve, not just a one-of-a-kind safari camp, but a conservation success story.
A milestone birthday called for the most marvellous multi-generational South African road trip via the scenic Route 62. We traversed the phenomenal and famed mountain passes of Swartberg and Meiringspoort; we stopped at waterfalls and landmarks along the way to the Cango Caves, with stalactites and stalagmites to delight all ages! There were visits to the historical towns of Prince Albert and Graaff-Reinet.
We reached Samara Karoo Reserve, a unique safari that embodies the passionate restoration of this breathtaking landscape in the Great Karoo.
Something for every age
As every family knows, a holiday with activities that engage teenagers is noteworthy. In this instance, there was friendly jostling for preferred seats on game vehicles, and boisterous lawn games between languid lunches near the large pool, followed by lazing on the abundant seating areas and welcoming enclaves of this contemporary villa. All the while, we were waited on hand and foot, and served scrumptious Karoo cuisine. Cousins laughed and teased, adults reminisced over G&Ts, and grandparents shared meaningful time with everyone, keeping us all young at heart and connected.
This landscape surpasses your wildest imagination, too. It’s an absolute wonder to drive through valleys and up the mountainside to the flat plains above, looking further into the distance than you might have thought possible. The setting of Samara is one of a kind! Being a little off the beaten track is a big part of its charm; it’s just an incredible place to see, and to slow down in. (The many, very old tortoises here have the right idea!) A breakfast picnic exceeded all our expectations, perched high above the valley at a table setting under sun umbrellas. It was one of many convivial meals shared together in this place that touches your soul.
Samara began as an ambitious rewilding project. That vision now extends to the creation of South Africa’s third largest protected area. Seeing what they’ve achieved so far leaves me in no doubt that they will strive to make this a reality for future generations to appreciate. Our three generations certainly did!
Conservation efforts
Until the late 19th century, this area had witnessed one of the world’s largest animal migrations, with huge numbers of antelopes, rhinos and elephants, and predators such as Cape lions, leopards, cheetahs, spotted hyenas and wild dogs.
Returning the landscape to its former glory forms an integral part of the Samara vision. However, putting dreams into motion requires practical action. The founders purchased 11 farms, encompassing five of South Africa’s nine vegetation biomes, and began the mammoth task of removing thousands of highly destructive goats and sheep, eradicating alien invasive plants, tackling soil erosion from overgrazing, tearing down internal fencing and resting the land for almost a decade.
Bit by bit, indigenous animals have been reintroduced, with a focus not only on iconic species but on the ecosystem processes they promote.
Having visited this spot ten years ago with my then young children, I delighted in returning with them now as teenagers, and seeing how much progress continues to be made. Seventy thousand acres and two decades later, Samara’s journey has picked up pace. Land that was allowed to rest for many years is slowly beginning to recover from the effects of generations of agricultural exploitation. Herds of animals including the springbok, black wildebeest, zebra and eland again roam the Plains of Camdeboo. Rhinos and elephants meander here once more. In this malaria-free and most scenic of destinations, we also relished the nocturnal sights of bat-eared foxes, porcupines and the comical aardvark.
Karoo’s cheetahs
Around a century and a half after it was last seen in the Karoo, Africa’s most endangered Big Cat, the cheetah, also reigns here again. Twenty years ago, Samara was host to a remarkable individual cheetah, Sibella, whose story embodies the plight of a species on the precipice of extinction.
Born wild, Sibella’s life nearly ended after being set upon by hunting dogs, then savagely beaten and locked in a cage. She was fortunate enough to be rescued – and she owes her life to the surgery and dedicated rehabilitation that ensued.
Sibella began a new chapter when she was brought to newly formed Samara along with two males. All those involved in her rehabilitation waited anxiously to see whether she’d be able to fend for herself. She remarkably outlived most wild cheetahs, dying of natural causes at the ripe age of 14, proving herself a capable hunter and exemplary mother.
She successfully reared an astonishing 19 cubs in four litters at Samara. With the birth of each new litter, when the cubs were old enough to leave their den, she dutifully presented them to her human guardians. To this day, guests benefit from the subsequent cheetah generations on the property who’ve inherited this level of comfort around humans, allowing for the remarkable offering of walking with wild cheetahs at Samara.
In all, Sibella contributed to almost three percent of the wild cheetah population across South Africa, a miraculous tale of success.
Where to stay
The Manor is an elegant exclusive-use villa for groups of up to eight. Guests enjoy the luxury of a private vehicle and staff, ensuring a personalised and flexible safari experience. We occupied this home and used it as our base for gatherings, while extended family spilled over nearby into the gorgeously renovated Karoo Lodge suites, the original historic farm homestead of the reserve.
Fact File
Fly to Cape Town and you can then choose from several safe and fantastic driving routes, including Route 62. Total driving time is seven to eight hours. Alternatively you can fly to Port Elizabeth (Gqeberha), from which driving time to Samara is three hours.
The five-star Samara Karoo Reserve offers exhilarating game drives, guided bush walks and hands-on conservation activities. The Karoo is home to unique geology with dramatic rock formations and many unique species. The clear, unpolluted skies of the Karoo make this one of the best places in the world for stargazing, too.
Accommodation in The Manor and Karoo Lodge starts from around HK$4,700 per person, including all meals and activities and two game drives daily. Those looking to really disconnect can opt for Plains Camp, a recently opened off-grid, explorer-style eco-tented camp that focuses on immersive walking safaris and authentic disconnection. Experiences there include The Cheetah Trail, a three-night “slackpacking” experience.
Find out more about Samara Karoo Reserve at samara.co.za.
This article first appeared in the March 2025 edition of Expat Living. You can purchase the latest issue or subscribe, so you never miss a copy!
