Are lab-grown diamond jewellery and synthetic gemstone pieces just a cheap replica of the real thing? Far from it! In recent times, gems created by human hand have grown enormously in popularity. But what are the arguments for and against their use? We look at some key factors when it comes to selecting a synthetic and natural stone with RAHILA REFAAQ. She’s the owner and designer of Hong Kong based jewellery brand Zaha et Cetera.
# Production
“Natural gemstones are rare minerals formed over millions of years through natural geological processes and volcanic activity. Gems like diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds have unique colours and qualities – their rarity and formation history often increase their value. Known for their stunning colours, clarity and brilliance, natural gemstones are popular in jewellery, representing a piece of Earth’s art created over millennia.
Lab-grown diamonds are made in factories by mimicking the process of how natural gems form in the Earth’s crust. The process starts with a tiny seed crystal, placed in a chamber that creates high heat and pressure. Carbon is added to bond with the seed, growing into a diamond layer by layer. The growth can take weeks to months, depending on the method used. These lab-grown diamonds look the same as natural ones and are nearly impossible to tell apart without special equipment.”
# Appearance and value
“Natural stones and lab-grown gemstones differ mainly in origin, appearance and value. Natural gemstones are more valuable because they are rare and take millions of years to form, offering unique inclusions and colour variations. They have a romantic appeal due to their natural origin.
Lab-grown gemstones are made in labs with controlled conditions, which means they have fewer flaws and also look more uniform. They can look so much like natural stones that only experts can tell them apart. However, they cost less, making them a cheaper option.
While both types of gemstones can appear similar and share properties, their value and uniqueness are primarily determined by their origin and the rarity of natural gems.”
# Ethics
“Lab-grown diamonds don’t disturb land or habitats, as they’re made in labs. However, creating them, especially through certain methods, can use a lot of energy. This often involves fossil-fuel-based electricity, leading to greenhouse gas emissions. Both industries are working to be more sustainable.
Look for certification from reputable organisations like GIA, GRS or Gübelin and ask about the gem’s origin and supply chain for transparency. Choose gems from sellers who support fair trade, ensuring fair wages and safe working conditions – prioritise conflict-free stones and vendors with eco-friendly mining practices. Also, consider buying recycled or vintage gems to reduce environmental impact. Supporting local artisans or small businesses can also ensure ethical sourcing; always ask sellers about their ethical practices to make informed decisions.”
Discover Rahila’s jewellery creations featuring diamonds and coloured gemstones at zahaetcetera.com.
This article about the debate surrounding lab-grown diamond jewellery and pieces made with natural stones first appeared in the March 2025 edition of Expat Living. You can purchase the latest issue or subscribe, so you never miss a copy!
