Chef SCOTT SHULMAN talks ingredients, culinary trends, the joy of making food that people enjoy eating, and how the delicious dishes (including his wagyu special) take shape. Plus, hear about his journey to ALTO Hong Kong, part of the S&S Hospitality group.
What inspired you to join S&S Hospitality and take the helm of ALTO Hong Kong?
I was back in the US during COVID, but I had worked in Hong Kong prior to that, alongside some of the team. So there was already a history of trust, respect and shared passion for delivering exceptional experiences between Sandip (Managing Director of S&S Hospitality), the teams and I – all it took was one phone call.
In looking for a new culinary match for ALTO, I thought it was a perfect fit for my passion for bold, flavourful cooking, centred around the grill. I’m excited about the chance to be part of a team that values innovation and quality, and I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to help elevate ALTO and create something truly memorable.
What’s one of the signature dishes at the restaurant? Is it hard to cook?
One popular dish is the 12-hour slow-cooked Wagyu Short Rib with Molé. I was inspired by an Oaxacan molé I had while living in Los Angeles, and that’s where the shared memories come into play. The dish features a rich, complex flavour from 31 ingredients— chillies, chocolate, cardamom, peanuts and more. We start with high-quality wagyu from New Zealand, braise it in red wine for 12 hours, then coat it in our homemade molé sauce. It’s served with mashed potatoes and crispy Brussels sprouts. It’s not the easiest dish to make, but it’s definitely worth the effort!
How did you get started in cooking? Where was your first job in a kitchen?
I really started cooking after my aunt was diagnosed with breast cancer. Chemo had destroyed her taste buds and she stopped eating. But every day we’d watch Food Network together and she would say how that dish looked so good, or that ingredient would be fun to try.
So, one day after watching an episode on roasted chicken, I went to the grocery store and bought everything I needed: chicken, butter, garlic, herbs – I then made a compound butter and put it under the skin, and I even made a pan sauce. My aunt ate two servings for dinner and I’ve never forgotten that feeling of someone enjoying my food.
My first kitchen job was making rice in my grandma’s kitchen. But my first real kitchen job was as “garde manger” (pantry chef) at Hatfield’s, a one-star Michelin restaurant that used to operate in Los Angeles.
What do you like to cook at home after a big night of service?
Honestly? SPAM, eggs and rice. It’s the Hawaiian in me that loves that combo!
What would you say is the most underrated kitchen utensil?
Long chopsticks. You can stir, flip and scramble with them, and also do intricate plating – they’re super versatile.
Favourite three ingredients to cook with?
Whatever fruits and vegetables are in season! Good miso. Aged vinegars
Is there any ingredient or food that people might be surprised to hear you don’t like?
Even though my wife is a pastry chef – she works at Spiga in Central – I’m not a big sweets guy.
Favourite dish in a local Hong Kong restaurant?
Curry fishballs, steamed minced pork with salted duck egg, and a good Hong Kong milk tea – they’re all a mix of spices, comfort and that East-West vibe, and the fusion of rich and bold flavours creates something special.
What’s an ingredient or food trend you see gaining traction in the next year or so?
I really see pickling and fermenting taking another huge leap forward. Not only does it decrease the amount of food we waste by using scraps and odds and ends, but fermenting also unlocks a funky door to unexpected flavours!
Where do you like to shop for ingredients in Hong Kong?
Hong Kong’s markets are full of surprises. One day it’s a Thai market, the next a Korean or Pakistani one. Exploring and discovering new ingredients is truly inspiring; it encourages a playful approach in the kitchen and pushes me to experiment with diverse flavours, adding layers and finesse to some classic steakhouse dishes.
What’s one tip that might be helpful for amateur cooks?
Don’t take it too seriously. Have fun and don’t be afraid to try new things and please embrace messing up – that’s the only way we learn!
What can diners look forward to at ALTO for the rest of the year?
More pickling and fermenting, for sure! We’re also going to grill and smoke everything we can. And we’re going to keep telling stories through our food and drink.
About ALTO Hong Kong and its menus
The restaurant’s focus is on refined and modern steakhouse favourites, crafted by Chef Scott. His childhood memories as a Hawaiian American and his travels around the globe take shape in his cooking approach, through subtle and refreshing touches. Scott is a meat and grill expert, with a generous approach to the overall hospitality and dining experience. He loves to treat guests to their favourite cuts while also sharing underrated cuts sourced from around the globe.
ALTO Hong Kong is at 31/F, V Point, 18 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay.
2603 7181 | sandshospitality.com
Read more people profiles in our Living in Hong Kong section!