What is a gemologist and who is behind this jewellery design brand? We have a chat with RAHILA REFAAQ about how her background and training have influenced her Hong Kong-based brand Zaha et Cetera and why diamonds are being upstaged by jewellery with gemstones.
Rahila comes from a family with a rich history in the diamond and gemstone industry. Her early exposure to the business came when she moved from Sri Lanka to Hong Kong at a young age. This was for her father’s work in gem and jewellery manufacturing, which he began here in the early 1960s. “I fondly recall assisting him in sorting parcels of melee diamonds by size and colour,” says Rahila. “That’s what sparked my curiosity in jewellery.”
What is a gemologist?
While she initially pursued a career in banking, working at a financial Institute for over seven years, Rahila later decided to change career path into the more familiar territory of gemology, obtaining credentials from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in 2003. “My journey in gemology to date has included further education in pearl studies and jewellery design, the study of advanced treatments in rubies and sapphires, and comprehensive identification of synthetic diamonds.”
She now has over 20 years of experience in the industry. In that period, she spent eight years as a full-time Senior Gemologist at an International Gemological Institute in Hong Kong.
In 2012, Rahila launched Zaha et Cetera, a jewellery brand in Hong Kong with a focus on meticulously crafted jewellery, handmade by skilled artisans in Hong Kong. The emphasis, she says, is on tailoring every piece to the client’s specific preferences and needs.
Sustainable jewellery design in Hong Kong
Along with bespoke jewellery, the brand offers a collection of ready-to-wear pieces in a range of designs. They can also assist if you’re looking to source high-quality coloured stones or GIA-certified diamonds.
Sustainability is another key of the business, according to Rahila. “We encourage clients to recycle their existing unworn jewellery. We can redesign it into something modern and wearable to reflect current trends.”
Rahila also brings all of her gemology knowledge to the table at Zaha et Cetera. “Having that expertise in identifying and evaluating gemstones means I can select the most suitable stones for a specific design. Different gemstone properties and characteristics can inspire unique designs that highlight the beauty and individuality of each stone.”
What is a gemologist able to offer customers? This training means that clients can be assured of the authenticity and quality of the gemstones that Rahila uses in the brand’s jewellery designs.
The lab diamond dilemma
Speaking of authenticity and quality, Rahila is all too aware of the growth in popularity of what are known as “lab-grown” diamonds. While these can be seen as a greener option compared to traditional mined diamonds due to their lower energy requirements and reduced environmental impact, she remains cautious about fully embracing the trend.
“Lab-grown diamonds can be created in a matter of weeks. That’s a stark contrast to the hundreds of millions of years it takes for natural diamonds to form. This accelerated production process gives these diamonds a significant cost advantage. Unlike natural diamonds, lab-grown ones do not hold the same emotional significance traditionally linked to their natural counterparts. Although they’re more affordable, making larger diamonds accessible to more people, they may not resonate with everyone. It’s a matter of personal preference!”
She also points out that the description “lab-grown” is something of a misnomer. Despite the name, these diamonds are not cultivated in labs today but rather in factories. “They should be regarded on par with other synthetic and imitation materials,” says Rahila.
“They don’t embody the characteristics of a sound investment or luxury item. While there may be a market for synthetics among certain demographics, it’s important to refrain from marketing them with an investment potential that they clearly lack.”
Jewellery with gemstones
Of course, not everyone who is jewellery shopping is looking to buy diamonds – natural or lab-grown. Rahila has noticed a strong recent demand for vibrant alternative jewellery with gemstones such as tourmaline, aquamarine, spinel, garnet and opal.
“Many clients choose a gemstone for its playful and colourful nature. Others make a choice based on their birthstone. It can add an extra dimension to their collection. Each one has its own distinct beauty and characteristics that can make a statement in your style. For example, tourmaline comes in a variety of colours and can add a pop of vibrancy to your look. Spinel offers a range of hues, from soft pastels to deep, rich tones, making it versatile for different styles. Garnet’s deep red tones display elegance, and opal’s iridescence adds a mystical vibe to any piece, while aquamarine has a serene green-blue ocean colour.”
The ideal settings for bringing out the best of these different stones
“For tourmaline and spinel, consider simple settings like solitaire rings or stud earrings to highlight their colour and sparkle,” says Rahila. “Garnet’s rich history dates back centuries, including being favoured by royalty and used in vintage-inspired designs. Its timeless appeal and historical significance make it a perfect complement to vintage-inspired jewellery designs, adding a touch of regal elegance and timeless beauty. Opal, meanwhile, looks stunning in bohemian or nature-inspired settings. People have long prized its unique and captivating beauty.”
As for aquamarine, ir was even used in ancient times, including in Egypt, Greece and Rome. “It’s a versatile gemstone that looks stunning in white gold or platinum settings. It can be showcased in various jewellery designs, including rings, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets. Often you’ll see it set as a centre stone or accented by diamonds or other gemstones in necklaces and earrings. The serene hue makes it suitable for both casual and formal wear.”
Ultimately, says Rahila, having this range of jewellery with gemstones available means you can highlight your own personal style through your jewellery design choices.
Find out more about what a gemologist is and about Rahila’s jewellery designs featuring diamonds and coloured gemstones at IG: @zahaetc.
This article first appeared in the Summer 2024 issue of Expat Living magazine. Subscribe now so you never miss an issue.
