Railay Beach in Krabi has dramatic karst limestone cliffs that rise from the sea on both sides, bookending a stretch of white sand, and water that shifts between emerald and turquoise. There are no roads and no cars. But you will find a pair of charming holiday homes, which together are known as Baan Railei. They offer direct access to the beach, a west-facing view across to islands and cliffs beyond, and spectacular sunsets.
A holiday home on Railay Beach
For the KING sisters, Tara, Melanie and Lisa, whose family has owned the homes for decades, they’re the setting of some fabulous childhood memories. Baan Samarinda and Baan Kintamani are two of only four privately owned beachfront homes on Railay West – the most sought-after stretch of the peninsula.
“Our parents bought Baan Samarinda over 35 years ago from a grainy photograph shown to them by a neighbour,” say the sisters. “They had never seen it in person. When they announced that our new family holiday home was a remote, jungle-fringed beach 13 hours away from Bangkok by bus, followed by a boat ride, we were not immediately enthusiastic.”
There was also no mains electricity at the home – just a diesel generator providing four hours of power a night. With no refrigeration, food had to be kept cold with ice blocks brought by long-tail boat from Krabi town.
Freedom and friendships
Despite these challenges, the choice of property was a winner. “Leaving our air-conditioned lives in Bangkok to rough it in an unknown faraway jungle felt like a bold ask. But it turned out to be the greatest gift they ever gave us, and one we still have the privilege of sharing today.”
What the sisters particularly remember fondly is the freedom. “The beach was completely empty in the mornings. No hotels, restaurants or ATMs; just sea, sand and limestone cliffs.”
Happy times were spent with neighbouring families – shared meals, board games and beach volleyball until the light faded. “For years, our family hosted a New Year’s Eve party on the beachfront, with every neighbour contributing a dish. Those friendships have lasted through the generations.”
More recently, Lisa got married on the lawn of Baan Samarinda – a natural, joyful celebration befitting the location, with guests walking barefoot across the beach for long lunches and sunset drinks, and children playing on the sand.
These days, getting to the houses is a breeze. Guests fly to Krabi, where they’re met by Railei Beach Club’s own vans and boats, and arrive at the house less than one hour from the airport. “The journey is now part of the pleasure,” say the Kings, “though the old way did have a certain character to it!”
The unpredictable power situation has changed, too. Now there are creature comforts everywhere you look, from air-con in all the bedrooms, to 5G Wi-Fi, fully fitted kitchens and more.
Relaxed beach holidays
We asked the sisters about the ongoing appeal of Railay Beach.
“The sea is warm year-round with gentle waves and no significant currents – it’s safe for children of all ages.” Add the lack of roads and traffic, and it’s little wonder parents describe Railay as one of the few places they feel genuinely relaxed rather than vigilant.
“Langur monkeys call from the jungle canopy in the early morning; hornbills and butterflies are abundant. Rock climbers come from around the world for the limestone faces, kayakers explore hidden lagoons at high tide, while others snorkel, dive or take boat trips to outlying islands. And the walking street behind the beach offers cold beers, pad thai and local ice cream in equal measure.”
Being on the west side of the Railay peninsula also means amazing sunset views, night after night – you can enjoy these from the deck, the Javanese pavilion, or the beach in front of the houses, with a cocktail in hand.
And then there’s the less tangible aspect of the place that visitors sometimes have trouble articulating. “Railay operates at its own pace – whatever you arrived carrying, it tends to loosen its grip here.”
A word from guests of these beach homes
“We had the most wonderful stay in Railay with two other families – 15 of us in total. The houses themselves are totally charming: beautiful and atmospheric, with colonial touches. And you really couldn’t ask for a better position. They’re right on the beach, with the sea only a few steps away.” – The Twinn family
“When I arrived in the heavenly cove of Railay Beach, hidden from view by towering cliffs, I felt like I was in a James Bond film. The villa itself is incredible; a wonderful and relaxing space surrounded by lush gardens, and filled with exquisite art, furnishings and trinkets from around the world.” – Mrs H
Fact File
Getting to Railay West:
Multiple airlines fly from Hong Kong to Krabi, with a short stopover. Transfers are provided for the van to Ao Nam Mao pier and long-tail boat to Railay West.
Best time to visit:
November to April has the most reliable weather. December to January is peak season – book early.
The Baan Railei holiday homes:
Baan Samarinda (sleeps 8) is a traditional Thai teak house with a green roof that blends into the surrounding ferns and trees. The interiors are dotted with Asian artefacts collected by the family, and the five bedrooms all feature wonderfully soft linens for sinking into after a day of sea and sun. The master bedroom opens out onto a covered deck with day beds.
Baan Kintamani (sleeps 7) is a neighbouring four-bedroom house that was added by the King family in the late 1990s. It features architectural elements from the native Indonesia of mum Farida, with unique carved doors and Balinese paintings.
Logistics:
The houses can be booked separately, or together for a larger group. While they are set up as luxury self-catering retreats, you can also opt for a full-service holiday if you want – think private chef, delicious Thai food, in-house massages, food shopping delivery and more.
For more information and bookings, visit baanrailei.com.
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